Technicians hate adjusting Steinway grand springs. It always takes longer than the type with the screw adjustment; however, it's not as difficult as it may seem. Once you learn how to adjust them, it should take only a half an hour to 45 minutes. First, you're going to work on a section at a time. If all or almost all the springs in a section are too weak, you will take out every spring in that section with a tool that has a U shape on one side and a string puller shape on the other side. Use the U shape side to disengage the springs. Then, with your finger, pull up on a few springs from their core, taking care not to change the shape of the spring. Test to see how they came out. If they need more or less bending, do it and try to get the feel of how much you bent them and do the rest of that section. At first it is better to get them on the tight side, and make sure none of them will still be too slow. The next step is to get them perfect. Sometimes the other side of the tool can be used to loosen them by pulling up on the middle of the spring. Usually there is too much bend in that part of the spring, so pulling up works well. If there is no extra bend in the middle of the spring, then push down so you will be bending at the core again. Check each one as you go along, and adjust them accordingly. They should come up at the speed of an audience standing up at a concert for applause or slightly faster, especially in the treble section. Don't forget that the backchecks have to be adjusted correctly beforehand. If the springs are all too tight from the start, take them out again in each section and see if the spring has a bend in the middle. If so, then bend it back a little, either with your finger or by pulling up with the pull side of that tool after you put the spring back in its position. If there isn't a bend in the middle, then push down with the U side of the tool so you are able to make the bend at the core. It is very important to make sure you get all the springs all the way into their slots. You can see the end of each spring by pressing down on the wippen; this will assure you that each spring is all the way in.

We often encounter a squeak or creaking noise in the damper system of vertical pianos as the sustain pedal is depressed. Usually the spring of the "auxiliary" damper lever is the source of the sound, although any or all of the other damper lever springs can generate the same squeaks. All that is necessary to eliminate the noise is to pull the spring out of its slot and let it snap back into place. Sometimes it may also be necessary to put a small amount of Protek solid MPL lubricant in the spring slot. However, there can be another source of damper system noise in verticals, though less frequent than the above problem --- the contact of the damper lever lifter rod and the lever felts. Corrosion or pitting of the rod, and/or hard, poor quality felt is usually to blame. Since it is assumed that we do not want to re-felt all the damper levers, we must address the lifter rod. Remove the rod from the action by removing the one opposing hanger bracket mounting screw, and sliding the rod out from behind the levers. Polish the rod with Flitz, Noxon, or other metal polish to achieve a clean, smooth surface. If you are in the field and do not have metal polish in your tool kit, use your Polita string polishing brick. Apply a light coat of Protek MPL over the entire rod, including the hanger hooks. This will prevent any potential noises from developing in the hanger bracket bushings, or with the rest felts which are mounted under the rod on the action rail. Re-install the damper lifter rod in the action, and the damper system will be free of any extraneous noises.